Pollinators like bees, butterflies, beetles, and hummingbirds are essential for healthy gardens and food production, but their populations are shrinking. The University of Illinois Extension points to a severe loss of feeding and nesting habitats as the main cause of this decline. Creating a pollinator garden is a practical way to help reverse that trend right in your own yard. By choosing the right plants, providing shelter, and adjusting a few maintenance habits, you can build a vibrant space that supports these creatures throughout the year.

Quick overview: Focus on native plants with single flowers, group them in clumps, and aim for blooms from spring to fall. Leave some bare ground and old stems for nesting, tolerate a little leaf damage, and avoid pesticides whenever possible. Always check with your state’s extension service for planting dates and plant lists tailored to your region.

Understanding the Pollinator Decline

The University of Illinois Extension explains that many pollinator populations are in decline, and this is attributed most severely to a loss in feeding and nesting habitats. Pollinators move pollen between flower structures to facilitate fertilization, which is vital to both plant reproduction and human food systems. A garden designed with their needs in mind can provide the missing resources: pollen, nectar, shelter, and places to raise young.

Choosing the Right Plants for Your Pollinator Garden

Plant selection is the foundation of a successful pollinator garden. Both the University of Illinois Extension and UMass Amherst Extension offer clear guidance on what makes a plant valuable to pollinators.

Go Native and Choose Single Flowers

Pollinators tend to prefer native plants that have higher pollen and nectar resources compared to many ornamentals, according to the University of Illinois Extension. UMass Amherst Extension adds that straight species generally have more pollen and nectar than cultivated varieties. Double flowers, with their extra petals, often have less pollen and nectar than single flowers, so it is best to avoid heavily modified blooms. Trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, and even wildflowers all play a role. UMass notes that wildflowers can be some of the best sources of pollen, and perennials usually offer more nectar than annuals.

Plant in Clumps and Ensure Season-Long Bloom

Groupings of plants are more attractive to pollinators than single plants scattered here and there, the University of Illinois Extension advises. UMass Amherst Extension also recommends planting in clumps or groupings and repeating species throughout the garden to help pollinator movement and keep habitats from becoming too small or isolated. Different pollinators are active at different times of the year, so a variety of flowers that bloom from spring to fall is essential. The University of Illinois Extension suggests selecting plants for season-long bloom, while UMass encourages having a sequence of flowers from spring to fall. Because local climate and bloom times vary widely, the University of Minnesota Extension’s home garden care calendar illustrates how planting dates in the Upper Midwest differ from other regions. Always consult your own state’s extension service for timing and plant recommendations specific to your area.

Providing Nesting and Shelter Habitats

Food is only part of the equation. Pollinators also need safe places to nest and overwinter. The University of Illinois Extension highlights that about 70 percent of native bees nest in the ground, while roughly 30 percent nest above ground in cavities like hollow flower stems.

Ground-Nesting Bees Need Bare Soil

To support ground-nesting bees, the University of Illinois Extension recommends leaving small patches of bare ground, loose sandy soils, slopes, or embankments. UMass Amherst Extension also advises providing bare spots for ground nesting bees. These areas should be in sunny locations, though UMass notes that shade and part shade areas are needed for protection from inclement weather. Avoid covering every inch of soil with mulch or turf; a little exposed earth goes a long way.

Stem-Nesting Bees and Overwintering Sites

For bees that nest above ground, the University of Illinois Extension suggests leaving 12 to 18 inches of flower stems standing when cleaning up the garden. Dead tree trunks can also be left in the landscape as nesting habitat. UMass Amherst Extension adds that nesting materials can include twigs, plant fibers, spider silk, lichens, leaves, and catkins. Plants with fluffy or fuzzy fibers, such as ornamental grass plumes or lamb’s ear foliage, provide good nesting resources. When doing garden clean-up, wait to trim and prune until after pollinators have emerged in spring, as many use plants as overwintering sites.

Accepting a Little Plant Damage

A pollinator garden will not look like a manicured showpiece, and that is a good thing. The University of Illinois Extension encourages gardeners to be willing to accept plant damage. Leafcutter bees cut up leaves, and caterpillars will eat foliage. UMass Amherst Extension reinforces this, urging gardeners to change their landscape expectations and expect plant damage. Some life stages require pollinators to eat vegetation, so plan accordingly. You might consider planting larval host plants away from high-traffic areas to hide any chewed leaves while still providing essential food for caterpillars.

Managing Pests Without Harming Pollinators

Pesticides can harm the very creatures you are trying to help. Both the University of Illinois Extension and UMass Amherst Extension stress using them only as a last resort. The University of Illinois Extension recommends following Integrated Pest Management (IPM) practices and applying pesticides only when necessary. Never apply to plants when they are in bloom. If you must use a pesticide, apply when pollinators are less active, such as at dawn or dusk, and select products known to be less harmful to pollinators. UMass Amherst Extension advises using non-chemical, organic solutions when possible, and choosing the least toxic chemicals. Apply in the evening when pollinators are least active, and avoid using them when plants, including nearby weeds, are in bloom. Use pesticides that do not persist on vegetation. Mechanical or manual control of weeds, such as mowing, cutting, pulling, or tilling, is preferred. Mulching to avoid weeds lessens the need for chemical control, and proper soil nutrition management can reduce excessive weeds. For more on managing pests responsibly, see our integrated pest management guide.

Lawns, Water, and Other Considerations

UMass Amherst Extension suggests allowing pollinator friendly plants in turf areas. UMass also suggests leaving some non-noxious species to enhance pollinator habitat. Limiting mowing to every other week gives these plants a chance to bloom. A clean water source is also important. UMass recommends a birdbath, fountain, dripping faucet, small pond, mud puddle, or damp salt lick. Mixing a small amount of sea salt or wood ashes into mud provides minerals for bees and butterflies. If your garden design includes new beds, paths, or edging that require digging, contact 811 a few business days before you start to have underground utilities marked. For ideas on laying out your space, visit our garden design section or explore garden paths and small garden layouts. Raised beds can also be incorporated; learn more in our raised garden beds guide.

Frequently asked questions

When is a good time to plant a pollinator garden?

There is no single right time that works everywhere. The University of Minnesota Extension’s garden care calendar shows that in the Upper Midwest, perennials are planted from late May through August, while spring bulbs go in from mid-September to mid-November. Your local extension service will have a calendar tailored to your climate. In general, plant after the danger of frost has passed in spring, or in early fall when temperatures cool.

Do I need to stop mowing my lawn completely?

No. UMass Amherst Extension recommends limiting mowing to every other week to allow flowering plants in the turf to bloom, but you do not need to abandon your lawn. Even a small unmown patch or a strip along a fence can provide valuable forage. The goal is to create a mix of mowed and unmowed areas that support pollinators while keeping the yard functional.

How can I find pollinator-friendly plants for my area?

The most reliable approach is to contact your state’s cooperative extension service. They offer plant lists, bloom calendars, and advice based on local conditions. The University of Illinois Extension and UMass Amherst Extension both provide resources, but their recommendations are tailored to their regions. A soil test from your extension office can also help you understand your soil before planting; see our soil testing guide for steps.

For more detailed guides, plant suggestions, and design inspiration, visit our Pollinator Gardens hub.

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