Plants valued for their flavor, scent, or medicinal properties are called herbs, according to the University of Massachusetts Amherst Extension. Basil, oregano, and fennel lend themselves to Italian cooking; lavender and lemon verbena can be used in potpourri; and chamomile or mints make soothing teas. Herbs are generally easy to grow, usually remain pest-free, and need only minimal watering once they are established.
Choosing a site and preparing the soil
The University of Minnesota Extension emphasizes that most herbs need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day, and full sun produces the strongest growth and best flavor. South- or west-facing spots are ideal. If you garden indoors, plan on about 12 hours of artificial light daily to keep plants compact and productive.
Soil quality matters just as much. Herbs demand well-drained ground. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and warns against heavy clay, soggy sites, or overly fertile soil. Rich soils push fast, lush growth but reduce the essential oils that give herbs their aroma and taste. Before planting, the UMass Amherst Extension suggests loosening the soil with a spade or garden fork, removing rocks and large roots, and working 2 to 3 inches of compost into the bed. A soil test from your local extension office will tell you the exact pH and whether you need to add lime or other amendments. And remember: before you dig a new bed or install edging, contact 811 a few business days ahead to have underground utilities marked.
Planting, spacing, and watering
You can start many herbs from seed indoors. The University of Minnesota Extension advises sowing seeds under fluorescent lights in late winter, about 6 to 8 weeks before your area’s last spring frost. Keep the lights 4 to 6 inches above the seedlings and run them 14 to 16 hours a day for stocky growth. Transplant seedlings outdoors only after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 50°F; warm-season herbs like basil prefer soil near 60°F. Because frost dates vary widely, check with your own state’s extension service for local timing.
Space plants according to their mature size. Crowding leads to weak stems, poor air circulation, and more disease, the University of Minnesota Extension notes. UMass Amherst Extension offers a practical example: an easy herb garden for a family of four fits in a 3-by-6-foot bed. They recommend watering each new transplant with a quart of water, then a quart each sunny day for the first week, and twice a week thereafter. For established in-ground herbs, the University of Minnesota Extension says to water deeply once a week, soaking the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Indoor herbs need water when the top half-inch of soil feels dry. Container-grown herbs outdoors may need daily watering during hot weather, a point both the University of Minnesota and Penn State Extension make. Always avoid waterlogged soil, which encourages root rot.
Fertilizing: less is more
Because herbs produce the most intense flavor when grown in moderately fertile soil, fertilize sparingly. The University of Minnesota Extension suggests applying a 5-10-5 fertilizer to garden beds just once per season at a rate of 3 ounces per 10 feet of row, and only if the soil is poor or plants show signs of nutrient deficiency. For container-grown herbs, they recommend a half-strength liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks outdoors. Overfeeding, especially with nitrogen, can dilute the essential oils that give herbs their character. For more on feeding garden plants, see our fertilizer basics guide.
Annuals, perennials, and dividing
Many culinary herbs are annuals that complete their life cycle in one season, basil and dill are common examples. Others, such as chives, thyme, and sage, are perennials that return year after year in suitable climates. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that perennial herbs like chives and creeping thyme can be propagated by division in early spring. Dividing mature clumps every few years rejuvenates the plants and gives you new starts for free.
Containers and indoor growing
If you lack garden space, herbs grow happily in pots. UMass Amherst Extension encourages placing containers on a sunny windowsill. Penn State Extension stresses that any container must have drainage holes and should be filled with a soilless potting mix, not garden soil, to ensure good drainage and avoid compaction. Plastic pots retain moisture longer than porous terracotta, while heavier pots can help keep top-heavy plants from tipping. The University of Minnesota Extension adds that indoor herbs need about 12 hours of artificial light daily and should be watered when the soil surface feels dry half an inch down. Tender perennial herbs can be moved indoors before the first frost and kept on a bright windowsill through the winter. For a deeper dive, visit our container gardening guide and the container gardening section.
Harvesting and preserving
Timing your harvest makes a difference. UMass Amherst Extension says herbs are most flavorful when picked before they flower and in the morning after the dew has dried. Snip a few sprigs at a time, and never remove more than a third of the plant at once, or it will take longer to recover. The University of Minnesota Extension simply advises harvesting throughout the season by snipping leaves and stems as needed.
To enjoy herbs year-round, preserve them. The University of Minnesota Extension details several methods. For air drying, bundle 4 or 5 stems together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated spot. A food dehydrator set to 95 to 115°F can dry leaves in 2 to 6 hours; they are ready when they crumble easily. You can also freeze whole leaves or sprigs in labeled bags, or chop herbs and freeze them in ice cube trays with water. Store dried herbs in airtight containers away from heat and light, and use them within one year. Frozen herbs keep well for up to a year, too.
Winter mulching and protection
In cold climates, hardy perennial herbs benefit from a protective mulch. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends spreading 2 to 5 inches of straw, compost, leaves, or marsh hay over the root zone after the ground freezes. This layer stabilizes soil temperatures, reduces winter injury, and also conserves moisture during the summer. Tender herbs in containers can be brought indoors before frost, as mentioned earlier. For more on mulching techniques, see our mulching guide.
Quick-start checklist
- Choose a spot that receives at least six hours of direct sun daily (University of Minnesota Extension).
- Check that the soil drains well and has a pH between 6.0 and 7.5; amend with compost as needed (UMN, UMass Amherst Extension).
- Contact 811 before digging a new bed.
- Select herbs suited to your climate; your state’s extension service can recommend varieties and planting dates.
- Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, or buy transplants (UMN).
- Space plants according to their mature size to avoid crowding (UMN).
- Water deeply once a week for in-ground herbs; container plants may need daily watering in hot weather (UMN, Penn State Extension).
- Fertilize sparingly: a single application of a 5-10-5 fertilizer in garden beds, or half-strength liquid feed every three to four weeks for containers (UMN).
- Harvest in the morning after dew dries, taking no more than a third of the plant at a time (UMass).
- Mulch perennial herbs with 2 to 5 inches of organic material before winter (UMN).
Frequently asked questions
How much sun do herbs need?
Most herbs need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day, and full sun produces the strongest growth and best flavor, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. South- or west-facing locations are ideal.
Can I grow herbs indoors?
Yes. UMass Amherst Extension suggests growing herbs on a sunny windowsill. The University of Minnesota Extension adds that indoor herbs need about 12 hours of artificial light daily if natural light is insufficient, and you should water when the soil feels dry half an inch below the surface.
How do I keep mint from spreading too much?
Mints are hardy perennials that can spread aggressively, the University of Minnesota Extension warns. The extension says they should be managed carefully. Growing mint in its own container is a common way gardeners keep it in bounds; ask your local extension office about mint varieties that are invasive in your area.
For more in-depth advice on specific herbs, visit our Herb Gardening section. You may also find our guides on Plants and Growing and container gardening helpful.
